Argireline

What is argireline?

Argireline is a synthetic peptide made up of a chain of 6 amino acids. It was developed by researchers in Spain as a result of efforts to find a safer but still effective version of botulinum neurotoxin type A (Botox) that could be added to skincare products (R). Other names for argireline include acetyl hexapeptide-8 or acetyl hexapeptide-3.

Is argireline stable?

A study on the stability of cream and gel formulations containing argireline found that their colour, texture, odour and pH were not affected by storage at either 4°C or 25°C. However, the amount of argireline fell to 59% and 41% after being heated to 40°C and 60°C respectively (R). Another study of 12 serums and 4 creams containing argireline found that it was oxidised in some of the products, which may have an impact on its efficacy as an anti-wrinkle agent (R).

Does argireline get absorbed?

Argireline permeates poorly through the skin, partly because of its relatively high molecular weight of 889 Daltons (R). In a study using human cadaver skin samples, most of the applied argireline remained on the surface of the skin and was later washed away. Only 0.22% was retained in the stratum corneum, and a mere 0.01% reached the epidermis (R). Optimising the formulation, for example by using water-rich water-in-oil-in-water and oil-in-water emulsions (R), or incorporating argireline in a cream instead of a gel (R), has been shown to increase its delivery.